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Frequently Asked Questions
Count the bolts on the longest route you plan to lead and add one or two spares. A 6-pack of Workhorse Keylock quickdraws is a starting point; add a second 6-pack or single draws as your routes get longer. Choose the 17 cm sling where bolts wander or sit under a lip.
HMS is the pear shape made for the Munter hitch. Its broad, rounded top lets the rope run smoothly through a belay device and spreads the wear, which is why the Mammut Classic HMS Screwgate is made to live on your belay loop. It weighs 63 g and opens 24 mm.
A screwgate is simple and stays put when you lock it, and the Mammut Sender's orange band shows whenever it is undone. A twistlock like the Sender Twistlock locks itself the moment you let go of the gate, which helps at anchors and with gloves on. Many climbers carry both.
Mammut says to retire it after contact with aggressive chemicals, or if it shows corrosion, heavy wear, sharp grooves from the rope, or grease and oil you cannot clean off. Also retire any carabiner dropped onto rock from height, and any lock that jams or will not close fully.
How to choose climbing carabiners
• Locking or non-locking: use a locker on the belay loop, at the anchor and for abseiling. The non-locking carabiners on a quickdraw are for clipping bolts.How to choose climbing carabiners
• Locking or non-locking: use a locker on the belay loop, at the anchor and for abseiling. The non-locking carabiners on a quickdraw are for clipping bolts.
• Shape: the pear-shaped HMS has a wide top that gives a Munter hitch or a belay device room to work. A D shape keeps the load close to the spine and takes less room on a crowded harness.
• Screwgate or twistlock: you lock a screwgate by hand, and Mammut's orange band shows while it is undone. A twistlock spins back and locks itself when you let go of the gate.
• Strength: read three numbers. The Classic HMS Screwgate is rated 24 kN along the spine, 8 kN gate open and 9 kN across. The Sender Screwgate and Sender Twistlock are 26 kN, 10 kN and 9 kN, and so are the Workhorse Keylock Quickdraws. Full strength needs a closed gate loaded along the spine.
The climbing hardware we stock
• Mammut locking carabiners: the Classic HMS Screwgate (63 g), and the compact Sender Screwgate (48 g) and Sender Twistlock (56 g) for multipitch and anchors.
• Mammut quickdraws: Workhorse Keylock in 12 cm or 17 cm slings as 6-packs, plus single 12 cm draws.
• Chalk: Black Diamond Liquid Black Gold.
Hardware is only half of it
Carabiners and quickdraws are personal protective equipment. Read Mammut's manual, and before each day out check that gates snap shut and slings have no cuts or glazing. If you are moving from the gym to bolts at Nowra or the Blue Mountains, learn to clip, build anchors and lower off with a qualified instructor first. Then add a climbing rope, harness and helmet.
Why buy from Oz Backcountry
Free shipping Australia-wide over $150 (T&Cs apply). Mammut and Black Diamond gear goes out from our Helensvale warehouse on the Gold Coast; the Deuter chalk bag ships direct from the supplier, so allow a little longer.
Related: Rock Climbing Gear · Climbing Rope · Climbing Harnesses · Climbing Helmets · Climbing Backpacks · Mammut